Tips for caulking or recaulking a bathtub

 

It’s well known in my social set that you haven’t really tested your destiny until you’ve hacked the mildewed caulk out of a soggy bathtub joint. At that nadir, that desperate plunge to the bottom of the job jar, you discover your true mettle. If you have a mettle already. And if you don’t, this job will supply you with one. 

Normally the bathtub is a place of reflection and self-pampering. And leg shaving. But now you’re here for a different reason.   You've noticed your caulk peeling for weeks, maybe months, staring eye-level at it every time you recline in the tub.  Now that once-white caulk is spawning black feathers of mildew growth.  It's time to act, but you want the job to last a long, long time.  I can help.  

 

People have improvised with many sharp and spiky objects to remove caulk, including slot-head screwdrivers, kitchen knives, garden implements, carpet blades, nail clippers, spatulas and scissors. None of them work well.  

Thankfully, the tool inventors of the world have come up with some modern solutions, but there are still issues. For example, if the last person to apply the silicone sealant was endowed with a generous nature, the bead of caulk is likely to be rather full-figured. Which means specialty tools like the Caulk-Away tool (available nationwide in all hardware stores and home centres) need backup from old-fashioned razor blades.

Another possible problem is that the installer of the vertical tile on the tub wall made the weirdly common error of actually GROUTING the joint between the bottom row of tiles and the bathtub itself. This is irritating. That space should have been left open to receive caulk, not grout.  Because grout doesn’t flex, and it doesn’t seal. Say it with me: Dang.

So if you have the grout-under-caulk problem you’re likely to be hacking out chips of grout along with the old caulk, making the job even more of a deep, stinging pain in the sternocleidomastoid.

 

Here are some tips:

Set aside some time on at least 3 consecutive days to allow proper drying and curing between steps.

Buy an inexpensive Caulk-Away tool at any home improvement retailer. If you can find the 'Pro' version of the Caulk-Away tool (pictured at left, it's got metal parts instead of plastic), you'll find the job goes faster.  Starting at one end of the tub, push the tool along under the old bead of caulk.

Clean up any remaining residue with a single-edge razor tool, available in the paint section at the hardware store.

Clean the joint with your vacuum’s crevice-tool attachment, then swab the joint with rubbing alcohol to remove soap scum, body oils and other ick.  (Rubbing alcohol dries quickly and leaves the surfaces impeccably clean so the new caulking will adhere well.)

Wait until the joint is perfectly dry. If the joint has been quite wet from a long-failing caulk job, put a fan on the joint and leave it running for at least 48 hours to pull all of the moisture out from underneath the tub.

After the joint is bone dry, fill the bathtub with water. Get into the tub, either nekkid, or wearing tall boots. Apply a fresh bead of silicone sealant to the joint. Use a premium quality mildew-resistant silicone sealant meant for use around tubs and showers (i.e. GE’s Kitchen and

Bath

silicone caulk

Smooth the caulk with a wet fingertip. Or for a tidier job, use the Caulk-Rite tool, a small rubber spatula set in a durable handle. It creates a stunning bead with no mess or edge marks. You can also use masking tape to keep the joint narrow and elegant.

Don’t bathe or shower for a minimum of 24 hours to let the caulk cure.

NOTE: The most common error in tub re-caulking is failure to fill the tub first! Water weighs 8 pounds per gallon. When the tub is full of those 8-pound gallons, plus your own weight, the bathtub flexes, dropping down and away from the wall and pulling the joint open. If you caulk the joint when it’s as wide open as it can ever possibly be, it will ensure that your fresh caulk will stand up way, way longer to the vagaries of moisture and time.

 

 

 

Comments

[Abi]

Mag,
Speaking of bathtubs, is there a way that I could keep dirt from back? it seems like whenever I clean the dirt in the inside of the bathtub, later the dirt comes back. I dont know why it keeps doing that, and I do not even see the point in cleaning it if thats gonna keep happening. And it seems like the dirt is coming from the drainage area. I cant seem to get rid of it. Mag do you have any ideas? Please help me!

take care
Abi