Transfer Photo Images to Wood Using Your Inkjet Printer
In case you missed it, this is a really fun, cheap way to cover wood with your favourite photos.
The plywood coasters pictured on the left are part of my recent discovery that you can take any digital image and transfer it to plywood, solid wood, wood veneers or unfinished furniture. It's fun, fast and cheap. I've made mouse pads, lap desks, flooring and even wall tiles using this technique.
The result is a fantastic alternative to stencilling or staining and you can even use your computer to create watercolour effects in your photos, or do other freaky stuff to the images. If you're into carving wood you can also use this technique to transfer your pattern directly onto the wood surface.
Steps Start with a package of T-shirt transfer paper, available at office supply places. Print your favourite photos onto the paper. Use the 'Mirror Image' setting to reverse the printed image so that the ironed-on image won't be backwards.
Cut a blank from plywood (TIP: Use Baltic Birch plywood - it's the nicest and you can buy it in small 2'x2' sheets at the Home Depot). Clamp a straight edge (like a carpenter's square or another piece of lumber) so the saw cuts a straight line. If you don't like power tools, you can easily cut Baltic Birch with a handsaw, or cut curvy shapes with a jigsaw.
Sand the surface of the wood. The smoother it is, the better it will accept the transfer. If you sand starting with 100-grit and move up gradually to 180 or 220 grit sandpaper, you'll have a really nice transfer surface. On the other hand, if you want a more antique, flaking look, leave the surface of the wood unsanded.
After sanding, trim the white edges around your photo images (I like using a paper trimmer, but scissors work fine) and place the transfer paper image-side-down on the wood.
The iron has to be used dry (no steam!) on a fairly high setting to get the plastic film on the transfer paper to release. Press down and move the iron over the image for about 2 minutes. change directions and maintain steady pressure, making sure to evenly heat the entire surface of the paper.
Test a corner of the heated transfer sheet after about two minutes to see if it lifts easily. If not, apply heat slowly and evenly to the edge. Then peel away slowly, keeping the iron on the rest of the paper to maintain the heat.
Keep peeling, slowly and steadily. If some of the plastic/image lifts, don't sweat it. You can patch it later. Or just leave it rustic.
If you are placing several images side by side like I did when I made my office chair mat, you'll end up with some space between 'seams'. You can patch seams and bald areas by cutting a similarly-shaped scrap from unused images, and applying it to the naked spot.
Iron the patch in place using a sheet of parchment paper (the stuff you line cookie sheets with), which will prevent the iron from tearing up the already transferred image around the patch.
Now the bald spot is gone. If you have the opposite problem - dark overlapping seams - you can apply a similar solution. Place parchment paper over the seam and place the iron on the seam for about 30 seconds. This will heat up the seam. Then use the tip of your iron through the parchment paper to nudge/melt the seams together.
Seams can be minimized on large pieces but they're still visible. I actually like the vintage linoleum effect of the seams.
This is the chair mat. I took photos of the rug that's already in the office and transferred them to the mat. Now I have a nice chair mat that doesn't scream plywood. (The reason I need a wooden chair mat instead of a plastic see-through one, is that the floor is so un-level that I have to shim the mat up about an inch and a half on one side so I can be sitting on a horizontal surface. You can't shim a plastic mat.)
This is how the chair mat looks under the desk I made from bamboo plywood.
Have fun with your photo transfer projects and send me photos if you do some cool stuff.
(Photo right) Lap desks (which double as TV trays), a mousepad and coasters (or wall tiles!) and (left) a veneer votive holder.
Mag,
This is very very interesting. Can this technigue also work on a regular printer... or does it have to be the inkjet Printer?
Ps the canadian Home coming is that time of month already? wow how time flies I hope you fun this weekend.. by the way are you enjoying your gift?
take care,
with love Abi
Posted by: Abi | February 27, 2009 at 01:34 PM
Hi Mag
Oh man..this is also pretty cool! I think I just found a very good idea for gifts! A question though...for when you get back from the show...You didn't mention sealing the wood...should you? Like with a urethane or varathane? or will the printer ink not react well with that? And..you mentioned mouse pads....any suggestions on where to buy blanks or sheets of that stuff? Just curious....the ideas for this can be endless ...Thank you..I wouldnt have thought of this in a million years!
Posted by: Gary Earle | March 01, 2009 at 09:31 AM
I've been looking for an easier way to transfer stencils to wood for carving. Awesome! Thanks Mag!!
Posted by: Cheryl | March 19, 2009 at 09:37 PM
What a cool idea!
Mag
Posted by: Mag | March 20, 2009 at 09:21 AM
P.S.
Gary, I use a clear coat (matte) over the finished transfer. And I make the mouse pads from wood veneer. Then I apply a rubber or vinyl backing to make it non-skid.
Mag
Posted by: Mag | March 20, 2009 at 09:24 AM
OMG!! I have been trying to figure out how to transfer a picture I took of La Havre harbor inside of and an old window frame. Thereby making a view out of a window where there is none! I can hide the seems with the mullions!!! WAHOO!!
Posted by: Vikki R | March 20, 2009 at 12:29 PM
How would I go about transfering an image onto an irregular object like a smooth, dry, barkless, large tree limb? Is it possible?
Posted by: Tina Witt | March 20, 2009 at 07:10 PM
Hmm. That's tricky. You might be able to do it with a small travel iron that could manage the undulations in the wood surface, but I think it might be frustrating because the paper would tend to kink. It would be a really cool effect though, if you could get it to work. Let me know if you do any experimenting.
Mag
Posted by: Mag | March 20, 2009 at 11:17 PM
Note to Vikki -
That's brilliant! Please, please send photos of your finished window!!
Mag
Posted by: Mag | March 20, 2009 at 11:20 PM
You could print directly on plywood, eliminating the transfer step:
See www.leevalley.com latest newsletter
Maarten
Posted by: Maarten | April 02, 2009 at 07:13 PM
I like this idea. If you want to print on large sheets or even smaller pieces check out my website @ theholzwurm.com. We directly print on wood using UV cured ink.
Posted by: Kevin Massey | May 09, 2009 at 02:19 PM
Nice idea.
Have you heard of Lazertran (http://www.lazertran.com/products/lazertran_products_inkjet.htm)?
This gives a similar effect on wood, ceramics, metal, glass etc without the use of heat. It's like those old decals you got in bubblegum that you soaked and then slid off onto skin/book/desk. It sinks in to the grain of the material you're applying to which makes it almost invisible if done correctly. Fun stuff.
Posted by: Alison | June 12, 2009 at 08:20 AM
Looks like a great way to personalize wood projects with photo/images.
Question: Will it work on wood that's been painted or stained?
Posted by: hds | March 20, 2010 at 04:07 PM
Hi Alison,
I'm about to try ironing on to painted wood but I think it will just blister the paint. I'll let you know.
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | August 11, 2010 at 11:52 AM
Hi again,
Transferring images to painted surfaces is possible! It worked really well for me on some old trim that had been painted with alkyd. Next I'll try it on a latex-painted surface to make sure the paint doesn't bubble or lift.
Posted by: ToolGirl | August 23, 2010 at 10:51 AM
Hi Mag! I just found your site and I love it! I see that your last post was about transferring to latex painted wood. I was wondering if that worked out? I would love to do that with some images that i have! Thank you!!
Posted by: Michelle | October 10, 2010 at 07:22 PM
Hi Michelle,
I'm on tour right now and can't try it (unless maybe this hotel would like baseboard festooned with photos!) I will get to this as soon as I get home, which will be in November. I hope you can wait. If you go ahead and test it yourself, PLEASE let me know your results!
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | October 14, 2010 at 12:30 PM
Hi, is there a certain kind of ink need for this technique, or will regular inkjet printer ink work?
Posted by: Amanda | November 05, 2010 at 11:54 AM
Hi Amanda,
Regular inkjet printer ink is all it takes. The ink prints onto the plastic film on the t-shirt transfer paper. When you flip the transfer over and use heat to release the film, the ink adheres directly to the surface and the plastic seals it.
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | November 07, 2010 at 11:00 AM
Will paint accept the iron on transfer?
Posted by: bob | January 25, 2011 at 11:57 AM
Hi Bob,
Yes, with qualifications. Depending on the paint type, the age of the paint, etc., the images transfer pretty well. Not as well as onto bare wood, but with a choppiness and grunge/shabby aged look that is kind of arty.
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | January 27, 2011 at 12:53 PM
Which laser tran paper works best for transfering to wood? Also, are photo printer inkjets.....?...can photo printers print on transfer paper and then put onto wood?
Posted by: Jill Heath | April 30, 2011 at 12:46 AM
I've only used this process with inkjet t-shirt transfer paper that I found at Staples Office Supplies. Photo printers (like Kodak kiosks) are laser printers, so you'd have to have a different kind of t-shirt transfer paper made for laser images. I don't know if the kiosks offer t-shirt transfer printing because I've never used one. But I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. All t-shirts transfers are wax/plastic-based and should iron just fine onto wood.
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | May 03, 2011 at 04:51 PM
Hi Mag,
I have looked everywhere to find out if this technique will work with newly stained wood. From everything I have seen here it should. I am hesitant to spend money and time on materials, just to have it deface my project.
Posted by: roger earp | May 27, 2011 at 02:54 PM
Hi Roger,
The only way to know for sure is to test a sample on a scrap of finished wood. It'll cost about $10 for a package of t-shirt transfers and the ink to print a photo. It's so worth testing to make sure you get the effect you want. If it's an oil-based stain it may not work (I don't know because I never use oil-based stains), but an acrylic stain will probably take the transfer fine. You're the only one who can prove it though!
Hope that helps - please let me know your findings?
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | May 30, 2011 at 11:27 AM
Does the 'blank' transfer paper AROUND the image have a different color after you apply it? In other words, if you apply a circle but don't trim all around the edge of the circle and say leave the excess paper on, will you see that excess? Do you recommend trimming as close as possible to the image?
Posted by: Lauren | July 03, 2011 at 07:40 PM
The 'blank' parts of the transfer paper come out as a slightly shiny transparent finish, so it's better to trim the image as tightly as possible to the edge to avoid getting a clear border around it.
Hope that helps.
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | July 03, 2011 at 11:09 PM
will this method work on a acoustic guitar?
Posted by: pete mcmeans | August 01, 2011 at 01:05 PM
will this work on a acoustic guitar?
Posted by: pete mcmeans | August 01, 2011 at 01:08 PM
Hi Mag,
Did you ever figure out if this method works on latex/water based painted surfaces?
Posted by: Sarah | August 11, 2011 at 08:55 PM
Tool girl, need help. my best friends husband and my dear friend, Bill, died suddenly a few years ago. He was 62 and had only retired a month earlier. We are all still struggeling with his loss. Bill always wanted to see Paris so luckly we made the trip as a retirement present a few months before he died. I want to make a memory for his wife, Anne, also a dear friend, to remind her of his happiness on that trip. I Idon't want to screw this up.
Posted by: diane mead | November 02, 2011 at 12:37 PM
I'd like to transfer several of the wonderful pictures of him/them on our trip that I have. The major thing I'm worried about is the longevity of the piece. I want to transfer photos to a beautiful little wooden table I found. I'm afraid i'll look great and peel up after a few months. Can u help?
Posted by: diane mead | November 02, 2011 at 12:45 PM
Hi Diane,
What a beautiful idea to make a travel memento from the little table. Does it have a finish on it, or is it unfinished wood? I have had absolutely no peeling on the projects I've done, even though they've been subjected to lots of heat and humidity changes, and spills too. I always transfer images onto bare wood though, so that's all I can guarantee it for. It should last a very, very long time if the images are adhering to unfinished wood. Then you can put a coat of satin acrylic sealer over the images just to even out the finish after you're done. Let me know if you have any more questions and good luck with the table. I'm sure Anne will love it to pieces.
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | November 02, 2011 at 01:48 PM
Oops missed a couple of messages higher up.
Sarah, the t-shirt transfers adhere nicely to old alkyd paint, but depending on the quality of latex paint on a substrate, the heat from the iron can cause bubbling. You really need to test the finish in an inconspicuous area (fingers crossed that there is one on the piece you're thinking of working with!)
Pete McMeans - An unfinished acoustic guitar would take images just fine but the heat from the iron would probably warp the veneers and micro-thin plywood used in guitar construction, whether it has been finished or not. This process works better on thicker substrates that can absorb and distribute the heat without burning or warping.
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | November 02, 2011 at 01:54 PM
Hi Mag. Came across this and what a neat crafts project. I bought some wood from Michaels, and have been experimenting. Is the wax supposed to come off the paper to "seal" the ink to the wood? Mine did, but it also left what look like air bubbles, and the wax peeled away in some sections. Do you have any suggestions on that?
Posted by: hunter | November 21, 2011 at 02:06 PM
I went to Office Depot and saw they have several types of transfer paper, does it matter which one I buy?
Posted by: Hunter | January 12, 2012 at 09:30 PM
Hi Hunter,
I'm using regular transfers in the above examples; I like the rustic effect. For much crisper images, choose t-shirt transfers for dark fabrics. The third type of transfer (for stretch fabrics) has quite an annoying flocked texture; I would avoid the stretch transfer paper!
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | January 13, 2012 at 03:21 PM
Hey mag it's me again, I bought the kind of paper you recommended and as soon as I put the iron to the paper, it started curling upwards and wasn't transferring at all. Maybe I didn't let the ink dry long enough? Also, I turned it over after I knew it wasn't going to work and saw that the image was starting to bubble...
Posted by: Hunter | January 20, 2012 at 11:20 PM
Hey mag it's me again, I bought the kind of paper you recommended and as soon as I put the iron to the paper, it started curling upwards and wasn't transferring at all. Maybe I didn't let the ink dry long enough? Also, I turned it over after I knew it wasn't going to work and saw that the image was starting to bubble...
Posted by: Hunter | January 20, 2012 at 11:20 PM
Hi Hunter,
It sounds like your iron is too hot - every iron is different so try turning the dial down about 30% or so and try again. Sorry you're having trouble. What kind of wood are your transferring onto?
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | January 21, 2012 at 10:23 PM
Haha I don't really remember. I think it's birch, but not baltic birtch.
Posted by: Hunter | January 21, 2012 at 10:52 PM
So happy to found your site! I have had an idea for a long time to do this project; I want to transfer photos onto driftwood for a rustic sea look. I have a piece of driftwood that is fairly flat. do you think it will work? I have bleached and dried it out. Any further tips?
Posted by: Kristen | January 23, 2012 at 02:52 PM
I should add that I want it to look very rustic; I am going to use B&W photos
Posted by: Kristen | January 23, 2012 at 02:54 PM
Hi Kristen,
I've never tried applying images to a curvy surface - it sounds hard because the iron is uncompromisingly flat, so you might have trouble heating the transfer evenly across the surface of the driftwood. No harm in trying though - use the pointed nose of the iron to force the transfer into low spots on the wood. Let me know how it turns out - would love to see photos.
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | January 25, 2012 at 01:48 PM
I have some dark fabric iron on transfer paper, like you suggested. But mine has a white background, not a clear one like you have. So doing what you have described would only result in a white piece of wood. Why do you have to turn the iron on over? Why not just follow the iron on's directions and peel the back off, picture facing up, and iron it through a piece of parchment paper?
Posted by: Elizabeth C. | June 15, 2012 at 09:45 PM
Hi Elizabeth,
I only suggest 'dark fabric' transfer paper if you want a really crisp look. The white background gives much sharper contrast to photos. If you use regular t-shirt transfers you get the clear background instead, which results in a much less detailed image. With dark fabric paper you should follow the instructions on the package, which involve peeling off the image and ironing it directly onto the wood surface through a piece of parchment paper that they supply in the package. The process pictured above is only for regular transfers, which must be reverse-printed to come out properly. Hope that helps.
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | June 22, 2012 at 08:36 AM
Hi: Thanks for the description. How durable is the final piece? Would it withstand being banged on by a four year old? I'm thinking of making a toy for my son.
thanks
guy
Posted by: guy | June 25, 2012 at 05:07 PM
Hi Guy,
After 3 years of heavy use (i.e. an office chair rolling over it for 8-12 hours a day with hard ballistic nylon wheels), the chair mat I made (above) is unmarred, the pattern is not chipped or scuffed and the thing still looks great. It helps that I clear-coated it with acrylic I suppose, but transfers are pretty tough on their own. They are meant to be laundered many many times, so your photo transfers should be fine, even on a toy. Hope that helps.
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | June 25, 2012 at 05:14 PM
Hi , Im trying to put a design onto a pool cue .. ive got sum water glide lazer trans paper and tried a few things but the paper leaves an edge that is noticable and ruins the whole job in my eyes . i have tried ironing the ink onto the cue with mixed results ..the cue is painted ( enamel paints ) and good to go .. .along with the design , but if anyone can help me either get rid of the edges ( ive tried sanding and clear coat enamel layering already) or tell me a product or method that will transfer the ink straight onto the paint ( without heat would be better) while also giving a near a possible to perfect transfer of the image/design. Thankyou for any help
Posted by: Mr Jones | July 05, 2012 at 06:06 PM
Hi there, I'd like to try this on a canoe paddle... but I need to be able to coat it with marine varnish after. Will the transfer take the varnish?
Thanks
Posted by: Heron | July 11, 2012 at 08:55 AM
Hi Mag.
I made two birdhouses using this technique and they are absolutely beautiful. I applied several coats of an outdoor spray sealer. Is this good for outdoors or should I do something in addition to better protect them from weather?
Posted by: Jessica | July 22, 2012 at 12:58 PM
Nice idea. But this is SO complicated! You need t-shirt transfer paper, and a saw, and a sander, and an iron, and parchment paper, and the list of instructions is way too long.
Posted by: Gemini | October 07, 2012 at 03:33 PM
Hi. I have been researching the use of transfer paper for putting images onto wood. I do pyrography, so I am just interested in transferring a light image so that I can wood burn it. Can you foresee any problems with that? TY and Happy Holidays!
Posted by: Dakota | December 25, 2012 at 10:26 PM
what is the meaning of T-shirt transfer paper? Is it a tissue paper?
Kindly explain
Posted by: Andrew AK | March 30, 2013 at 04:19 AM
what is the meaning of T-shirt transfer paper? Is it a tissue paper?
Kindly explain
Posted by: Andrew AK | March 30, 2013 at 04:22 AM
Dakota - Yes, you can transfer images to wood for pyrography.
Andrew - T-shirt transfer paper is a product you can buy at an office supply store. Usually there are about 10 pages per package. You print onto the pages with your inkjet printer and then iron the transfer onto a t-shirt (only in our case, we iron the image onto wood).
Posted by: ToolGirl | March 30, 2013 at 05:36 PM
Hello!
I am currently pursuing a project similar to this, I am printing images onto large wooden canvas' for a school assessment task.
I am wanting to print the image on but have the wooden texture show through the highlights, as seen on another example of how to do this at http://petapixel.com/2013/02/27/how-to-print-your-photos-onto-wood/
Their method uses no iron and has the result I am looking for - thing is I was wondering if iron on transfer paper is all there is? Or is there different kinds of transfer paper with different effects?
I'm worried that iron transfer paper will print the image directly onto the wood and the wooden effect won't show through - this defeating the purpose of this project.
Can you tell me if I get normal transparent paper as specified here, will I get the same outcome if I use the other method of printing? Or the same outcome if I use the iron method of printing??
Please e-mail me directly as I need help as soo as possible - and apologies for the disjointed question, I'm on my phone.
My e-mail is elizabethjburns@hotmail.com
Posted by: Elizabeth B | June 02, 2013 at 09:04 AM
Hi. I am new to the crafting world and need help. I want to transfer a quote to a finished frame for father's day and am lost on how to do it. Could I print the quote on transfer paper and then transfer to the frame? Or is there an easier or better option for txt. Thank you for any help.
Posted by: Taylor | June 14, 2013 at 09:12 AM
hi just wanting to know do you need a certain type of printer?
thanks
Posted by: Josh | December 15, 2013 at 06:29 PM
pvc shet transfar film size 9'*27"
Posted by: kamlesh nakrani | January 15, 2014 at 06:00 AM
They need the chemical of emagy photo transfer in the t-shirt
Posted by: HENRY KASANGA | February 10, 2014 at 05:02 AM
They need the chemical of emagy photo transfer in the t-shirt
Posted by: HENRY KASANGA | February 10, 2014 at 05:02 AM
Thanks to share this idea. I've tried yesterday on a painted wood and it works great.
Posted by: Cécile (France) | March 07, 2014 at 01:35 PM
I have been trying to do this for some time now, parts of the image transfer but some partWhat am i doing wrong ?
Posted by: Tammy Searle | May 06, 2014 at 03:39 AM
sorry ! some parts bubble and stick to the paper, or bubble on the wood
Posted by: Tammy Searle | May 06, 2014 at 03:40 AM
Hi Tammy,
Sounds like your iron is too hot and/or you're leaving the iron a little too long on the transfer backing. Try a cooler/shorter technique and see if you get better results.
Hope it works!
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | May 07, 2014 at 11:27 AM
Hi, I have an idea about transferring choice pictures onto wooden window and double door blinds. Do you think this is possible just allowing for the sections to space the picture? Also, this will be finished painted wood. Thank you, Joel Addison
Posted by: Joel Addison | September 25, 2014 at 11:15 AM
Hi Mag,I wrote earlier about trying to transfer memorable pictures, sunsets or loved ones onto wooden blinds that when you end the evening those precious sites are what you see.You are amazingly creative and I appreciate your advice.Could you tell me if the prints could be put onto a self adhesive paper that you can stick to the wood blinds? I think Lowes could really market this concept if it can be worked out. Thank you, Joel Addison
Posted by: Joel Addison | September 25, 2014 at 12:24 PM
Mr Jones - sounds like you would have more success with a decal that you can print on an inkjet and then varnish over it. Check your office supply place for inkjet-printable decal paper.
Heron - The transfer may melt slightly with the solvents in the varnish. I haven't tried it, so I recommend testing it first on a small block of the wood. You might find the decal process mentioned above to be a more appropriate method.
Hope that helps.
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | September 26, 2014 at 07:53 AM
Joel - your idea is intriguing. The only issue I see is that the transfer paper comes in 8-1/2 x 11 sheets, and it sounds like you're after a larger image. You might want to experiment on a blind first - you can usually find them at Habitat for Humanity ReStores. Overlapping several of the sheets to get the image large enough will leave 'seam' lines that will kind of spoil the effect, so you'll need to experiment with the technique to see if you can get the look you're after. You mention transferring images onto adhesive paper - that seems like a better direction than t-shirt transfer iron-on sheets, but again, you'll need a fairly large sheet of adhesive paper to fill the blind surface. An office supply place could probably print it for you if you don't have a wide-carriage printer. Then you'd probably have to cut the image into strips and apply them one at a time to each slat - it's easier to work with small pieces of sticky paper than to try to apply one large sheet, which would tend to pucker and show air bubbles. Sorry I'm not more helpful - let me know if you figure out the technique. It really is a cool idea!
Mag
Posted by: ToolGirl | September 26, 2014 at 08:18 AM
Hi, do you spray a lacquer or treat the wood after the print is applied?
Or is it already water tight?
Thanks
Posted by: Lindsay Teale | January 07, 2015 at 08:40 AM